Saturday, November 03, 2018

Gone but not forgotten in Rodez...

It was odd to go through my photos of Rodez this evening and find these traces of the old Foirail area. The first photo was taken in 2006, and the two others in 2007.

A visit yesterday to the Musée Soulages made me think about what used to be.

Remember the old skybridge to the Amphithéâtre?




Monday, June 04, 2018

3 Years Ago on La France Profonde -- Good-bye to a Neighborhood


Le Printemps celebrating "le printemps"

I had hoped to do better blog-wise by my lovely Easter weekend in Paris. It was my first real dose of spring, and there is so much to tell, as usual when one spends a weekend in Paris.

But spring continued to move into full bloom phase here, and time went by without my feeling like spending evening time on the computer.

(This is where I should tell you that I was spending my evenings whipping our yard into shape, but in reality I was lolling on the couch admiring spring blossoms from our sunny living room.)


The light, the light...

For new readers of this blog, our eldest daughter has lived in Paris for nearly three years now, and that has given me -- or us --  the opportunity, or at least the impetus, to head up there much more often.



More impetus for this trip...

I had definitely wanted to get up to Paris for the David Bowie Is exhibit at the newly opened (January 2015) Philharmonie de Paris. I'm quite a Bowie fan, but a bit leery of rock music exhibits and museums. It is such a challenge to translate a musical experience into a musical and visual one without the actual presence of the artist.

But Bowie's work and persona are definitely up to this challenge, and I would call the exhibit an unqualified success. It is on until the end of May, so if you have been wondering about going, get your tickets!

We also went to the recently renovated Musée Picasso. I hadn't visited this museum in decades, and appreciated the airy, uncramped feel of the new version. They are also doing a good job with crowd management; despite a huge line on a day (the first Sunday of the month)  when the museum was free, the galleries were not overly crowded. 

Of course I took plenty of photos, but will just share a few views from the building: 






I often find looking out from museums almost as interesting as looking at the works inside them... 



Back in Aveyron -- oops, Paris 12me

This weekend had special meaning as it may well have been the last based in the "quartier des Aveyronnais," or a small portion of the 12me arrondissement near the Cour St. Emilion and Bercy Village

My daughter has been lucky enough to live the past three years in a special, and very reasonably priced,  apartment building for young people from the Aveyron, L'Oustal

But all good things must come to an end, and in mid-July her lease will be up, and she will be looking for new lodgings. 

I will miss many things about this calm and relatively little-known neighborhood of Paris.

I will miss the delicious food from the Auberge Aveyronnaise, pictured above. Of course we can go back there -- and even eat the same type of food here in Aveyron! 


My first stop every morning I spent in the neighborhood

And yes, I will miss the relatively un-touristy Starbucks that was just a few minutes away from her apartment.

But, assuming that she finds a decent apartment in an interesting area of Paris, there will be more discoveries to make.


Sunday, May 24, 2015

A jewel of a village: Coussergues, Aveyron


Coussergues, looking a bit like a village in Touraine for some reason

Coming on to the last of our exceptional string of long weekends here in France, I really hoped to have a lot of new, local adventures to share. But the weather has really got into the way.

Let me explain: May can have anywhere from no official long weekends and just one potential long weekend, to three official ones and one potential one. This year we got the jackpot. May 1st (La Fête du Travail) and May 8th, to celebrate the end of World War II, were both on Fridays, making for automatic long weekends.

Ascension Thursday is always a public holiday, but can be earlier or later in May. This year it came right on the heels of the May 8th holiday, and since our building closes for the Friday following, I got another long weekend last weekend.

But of all of those days off and weekends, really only Sunday May 10th provided me with beautiful, warm, exploring weather. That is when I went to Palmas, which I wrote about in my last post, and also discovered the charming village of Coussergues, located between Laissac and St. Geniez d'Olt


.



Coussergues is impressive for its two church towers of approximately the same height. 



This is the "modern" church, built in the 19th century. This type of church is not considered much of an attraction in these parts, but I found its location attractive and liked the way it stood out in the middle of the village












The bell tower is all that remains of the 15th century church, just a few steps away from the "new" church. 


This church used to serve as a shelter for village residents, perhaps during periods of attacks from enemies.


Its fortress-like aspect strikes a sharp contrast against the more clearly "churchy" modern edifice. 







A place to be explored...

Like just about every place I have visited since I started up my perigrinations again last fall, I told myself I needed to come back when I had a little more time. And if I just were to carry on a few more kilometers, there are many other places to explore in the surrounding countryside.


No sign-posting here

I ended my visit to Coussergues sitting on a conveniently-located bench in front of this intriguing little fountain.

Like so many other structures in France, no sign indicated a thing about its age or origin.

As I write this, it is our last in the series of long weekends -- Pentecost weekend, with Monday being a public holiday. Pentecost weekend is more often in June, but the church calendar this year piled it up right after the string of three other long weekends.

The weather has been gloomy, if not out and out cold, so I have nothing more recent to add. 

But I can always hold out hope for tomorrow. 


Lou Messugo

Friday, May 15, 2015

Backroad Wanderings: Palmas, Aveyron


Looking up at the Eglise Saint-Vincent de Palmas

Last Sunday we had magnificent weather here, and I was itching to get out and do a little more backroad exploration. Unfortunately -- no, let's say fortunately, it needed to be done -- my husband got me wrapped up in a home improvement project at about 3pm, right before I was planning to leave.

"It won't take long!" 

I've heard that before! 4pm, 5pm, 6pm...I finally hit the road in the early evening which, on what was a hot day, turned out to be most pleasant.

My only plan was to head east, as I know very little of the whole area between Gages, where we live, and the impressive medieval city of Sévérac-le-Château

My first stop, and the object of this post, was the tiny town of Palmas -- just 14 kilometres from my house, yet I had never set foot there.



A precarious and surprisingly accessible climb

I was pressed for time (grumble grumble, yet that home improvement project WAS worth it), and I'm afraid I didn't do the place justice. Naturally, I found myself drawn to the most clearly visible site to see: the stark yet stunning Eglise Saint-Vincent de Palmas.


Were there really no railings up this staircase?

I was intrigued at the apparently permitted possibility of climbling up an exterior staircase to a tiny terrace, and even more surprised to be able to open the iron gate to go into it.

I perched up there for a few minutes, feeling a bit dizzy, and forgot to take any photos looking down.


The narrow door at the top of the stairs

The door at the top of the stairs was only about a foot and a half wide -- I wondered about its purpose, and wondered even more about the advisability of passers-by (read:me) being able to climb up the stairs with no railing. But of course I was thrilled to be able to do so!


A church with a built-in mailbox



Front view of the bell tower

My visit to Palmas started and ended here. As the only person wandering around the village, I was already feeling conspicuous. An elderly woman had started observing me from her window; a dog started barking as I stood in front of its house to take this last shot.


My future backroad companion

I later found out I had missed a lot: the vestiges of a castle, three distinct "quartiers," a 16th century bridge. 

I have an excellent book by Daniel Crozes , a well-known local author, that gives an exhaustive wealth of information about every nook and cranny of Aveyron, but I have been consulting it after my outings only.

On further expeditions, Daniel Crozes will guide me -- at least once I've landed in the place I plan to explore. 

Monday, May 04, 2015

An emotional visit to Albi, a place that used to be home


Albi, looking UNESCO-picture-perfect

Albi was my first French home, and for years I carried around a heavy, lump-in-the-throat nostalgia about it.

We lived there for two years in the early 90s; our first daughter was born there; I easily imagined staying there indefinitely.

But professional changes led us to spend a few years in Touraine, and then return to the Midi-Pyrénées area: not to Albi (sniff -- no, sniffed), but to Aveyron -- as you all know.

Rodez is now less than an hour's drive from Albi, but when we arrived, the road was sinuous and slow, and we immediately figured out that with two small children, we weren't going to get back to Albi that often.

I was shocked, though, as I planned a day trip there last weekend with one of our exchange students, to find that I had not been back for exactly (to the day!) 7 years -- not counting, of course, driving past the town on the way to Toulouse.



Tourists come from far and near...and why wouldn't they?

A lot has happened there, even since 2008. The Episcopal City of Albi, including its cathedral, became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2010, giving it the same worldwide cultural standing as Chartres Cathedral or the Pont du Gard

Albi was a tourist attraction even when I lived there, but the swarms of visitors in early May, and the rather alarming number of tourist-trappy-looking restaurants sprung up around the cathedral, attest to a significant boost in the town's popularity.



The St. Salvy/Salvi Cloisters, May 2, 2008

My favorite place in Albi, and one where I could always find a moment of cool calm when I lived there, is The St Salvy Cloisters

I'm glad I got this photo 7 years ago, because this time around, the cloisters were overtaken by a boisterous and vociferous group of young (but adult) Spanish tourists using the secluded site to take multiple photos in a variety of oh-so-amusing poses. 

Their raucous photo shoot took over half an hour, so I gave up on any hope of cloister "zénitude," as the French would put it -- athough I did think that was what cloisters were for, even now. Call me old-fashioned.  



Blooms have replaced the dirt in the previous photo, so at least I can reflect from the comfort of my own computer

The day marked a turning point for me. 

Yes, Albi, you are drop-dead gorgeous, certainly, at least at first glance,  the most beautiful medium-sized city in the region. I will definitely be back before 7 more years go by -- although perhaps in February.

And yes, you deserve your UNESCO status, and I might add in passing that the powers that be did a fantastic job fixing you up. You wear your honor well.

But, finally, after many years of "what-ifs," you no longer feel anything like what used to be home.

Sunday, April 26, 2015

Old signs and abandoned buildings


Abandoned storefront in Rodez, France

A lot of my favorite finds never make it to my blog. 

As most "France" bloggers do, I tend to focus on the scenic: pastoral views, architectural wonders, and, of course, the mandatory doors and windows. (Sometimes I try to resist the latter, but who can, really?)

But what I actually love tracking down the most are old signs, abandoned buildings, and assorted weird places that wouldn't make the tourist guides.


Girdles ("gaines") must have been more important than lingerie at the time

This sign for Triumph Lingerie, a perfectly modern brand,  is displayed on a still-operating lingerie shop in a nearby town. I like that they have chosen not to take it down -- or just haven't gotten around to it.


There's always a story...

More recently abandoned buildings, especially businesses, always make me feel melancholy. I wonder what the story was: dwindling trade, no one to take over after retirement, even a death? I may like the photos, but it doesn't mean I like the situation.


An old sign of the scenic variety

One finds, in France, a number of old advertising signs placed directly on houses, or even painted on them. I've often been curious about this practice, and I also enjoy looking up the brand if I don't know of it.

But with so many of the letters hidden behind the leaves, I wasn't able to find out what the one above was for.

Does anybody out there know?

UPDATE FOUR HOURS LATER

Although I hadn't heard from her for a while, I suspected that this would be the type of mystery that Susan from Days on the Claise would solve, or at least help me solve. She was able to decipher that the top word was "HUILE," or (motor) oil, and suggested the brand might be HART.

That sped up my research considerably. The brand was not HART, but HAFA, and it is still a going concern -- just shows you how much I'm up on my motor oils. 

This led me to finding a full photo of the same ad, on the blog Fragments de Roanne.



Photo courtesy of Dominique Thoral

I had been intrigued by the latest photo's on Dominique's blog, a series of "abri-bus," or covered bus stops, and was not that surprised to find out the blogger is a truly accomplished photographer who has done some exhibits.

Website: Choses Communes by Dominique Thoral









Lou Messugo